Page 6 - North Haven Magazine Issue 36 Holiday 2024

“La Cena della Vigilia”
“La Cena della Vigilia”

Christmas Eve Dinner
Christmas Eve Dinner by Nick Casella

If I close my eyes, I can vividly recall the emotions, aromas and flavors of the various holidays from my childhood, both in Italy and
New Haven, to which I immigrated as a child. For Italians, holidays make up an important part of the family fabric and traditions that
define us. Although I am enamored with all the holidays, my favorite has always been Christmas.

Like most other holidays, and let’s face it, most days in general, Italian Americans have a way of making the Christmas season all
about food. But there is one day and one meal in particular that is the most celebrated and legendary Italian American meal of the
calendar year.

rounded by such a bountiful coastline still smell the pot of shellfish-laden pasta
that seafood has been a massive part of sauce simmering for hours on the stove-
the population’s diet for generations. top.
Meanwhile, the tradition of eating a large
and meatless meal on Christmas Eve is Taking tradition and memory into ac-
common throughout Italy. The number count, here are the most common fish,
“seven” was not attached to the feast un- shellfish and entire dishes you might
til long after Italian immigrants arrived in find at an Italian American Christmas Eve
America with their cultural feast in tow. gathering. There are, of course, many oth-
er options for you to make this meal all
your own, but it’s best to start with the
standards. Some should be enjoyed with
pasta, while others are just as delicious
enjoyed on their own.

The Feast of the Seven Fishes is the annu-
al Christmas Eve vigil and epic seafood Instead of calling it the “Feast of the Sev-
feast. that has grown into the most be- en Fishes,” the first wave of Italian immi-
loved meal of the year in Italian Ameri- grants likely called it La Cena Della Vigilia,
can households. Steeped in tradition, the Il Cenone, La Vigilia di Natale or La Vigilia.
Feast of the Seven Fishes is the center- As for the exact number of fish dishes be- Baked Clams
piece meal of the entire holiday season. ing a strict seven, no one quite knows how There definitely must be a few snack-
It heartens home cooks to adhere to their Italian-Americans landed on that numer- sized, appetizer-type dishes in this feast,
heritage while also inspiring them to step ical marker. There is a good chance the and baked clams are the ideal entry point
a bit out of their lasagna and baked ziti “seven fishes” designation has religious into the seafood extravaganza.
comfort zones. ties, particularly in the Roman Catholic
Church’s seven sacraments, seven virtues Pizze Fritte with Bacala and Anchovies
It is interesting to note that our area of or the “seventh day of rest” from the Bi- For Italians whose ancestry is Neopolitan,
the Northeast saw a large emigration of ble. No matter where that number came you must serve pizze fritte (or, as some
Italians from the southern half of Italy in from, there are traditional dishes that call it, Zeppole) with either Bacala or An-
the 1900s. Many came from the regions most Italian-American families insist must chovies on Christmas Eve.
of Campania, Calabria, Puglia and Sicilia be among the seven.
and, as such, brought their traditions with Fried Smelts
them. Although there’s often seafood in The Traditional Seafood Dishes In” The Feast of Larger smelts can be butterflied, with
central and northern Italian cena della The Seven Fishes” the flesh pulling easily off those tiny fish
vigilia (Christmas Eve dinner), it is from If you asked seven different Italian Amer- bones. But the real joy is with the tiny
these southern regions that our local Ital- ican families, there is a good chance you smelts that can be eaten whole—bones
ian traditions stem from. will get seven different answers as to what and all! These crispy little morsels burst
dishes are a must-have during the feast. with the flavors of the sea. In a way, they
A Little History of Seven Fishes Mainly, it’s all about tradition—some are like little fish-flavored French fries—
The origin of the feast can be traced back modern-day Italian Americans have mem- perfectly salty, pleasantly oily and deeply
to southern Italy, the area that is sur- ories of their grandma butchering live oceanic.
eels in the kitchen sink, while others can

6 North Haven Magazine - Holiday Issue 2024